This was to be one climb of an ambitious 4 climbs spread out over the 2 islands. 2 volcano climbs ,one Mt. pass and a fjordland gorge traverse. Unfortunately bad weather killed the Milford sound - Homer Tunnel run with some help from a reluctant bike renter. Time pressures and dwindling finances caused me to abort the Arthur's Pass Mt. run and the Mt. Taranaki active volcano climb on the North Island.That left me one remaining climb. Smack bang in the middle of the North Island lies a chain of 3 active volcanoes at the centre of a vast fault line that cuts the island in two from W to ENE. At the Northern end sits Tongariro, wisened and weather beaten. In the middle ,Mt. Ngauruhoe, cone-shaped at 2287 metres (7500ft.).Completing the triple chain ,at the southern end , lay Mt. Ruapehu 2797 metres(9174 ft.), the dominant peak, multi-cratered and very much active.

So active in fact, that in Sept. 1995 it blew its top in spectacular fashion in the middle of the ski season. For 4 months from June - Sept 1996, eruptions lit up the sky , day and night spewing ash and pumice over a wide radius. Residents of Okahune abandoned the ski season altogether and set up deck chairs to watch nature's fury from their porches.

Okahune was to be the base start of my climb at 597 metres (1960 ft. ) altitude. That was higher than I'd ever climbed TO in my cycling having weaned myself on the Wicklow and Dublin Mts. in Ireland. I picked up double high pressure weather and on a weekday at 11 a.m. in the morning my mountain bike was picked up at the Powerhorn, Powderkeg & Ski Shop at the top of Mangawhero Terrace and immediately I found the seat post frozen in too low a position for me. A quick change and I was off over the railway tracks and up the Mt. road that parallels the Mangawhero river up Ruapehu's slopes.

The object was simple, climb the road as far as possible. Guide books told me it was between 16 and 17 kms long (10 -10.5 Miles), but I had no idea at what elevation the Turoa Ski field was (finishing point). Each completed Km of road was marked by a series of wooden posts with the Km number etched in yellow paint. The first 3 kms. were fine ,5 - 7% grade. Subalpine forest skirted either side of the road with tree ferns, common to NZ, red pine, silver birch and beech competing for water and light. The air was tranquil save for the strange sounds of largely invisible birds, probably Kakas, Wekas or Bellbirds. Temp 70° F, the sky cloudless and deep blue. Nikau groves and roadside palm trees fooled you into believing you were in the tropics.Between the 4th and 5th Km, the road suddenly grew steep, up to 13% gradient as I slipped comfortably down the gears.

Back at the shop they had given me a Mohawa Mt. bike, triple chainwheel (20 - 36 - 46) and back cassette (32 T lowest). I usually ride road bikes so this was a first experience on this type. Now I was finding a common complaint of Mt. Bikers , the front wheel lost road grip and lifted up. It might have been caused by a combination of steep slope, a shifted centre of gravity and my loaded backpack . I came prepared, so I thought, for all eventualities. The pack was loaded with a fleece jacket, windcheater, 2 tyre repair kits, full water bottle, camera, snacks and a Philips screwdriver. Once more the slope of the road settled down into a nice 9 - 10 % gradient after the 5 km. mark. Then I saw my first full view of Ruapehu in all her glory. The bottom of the snowline lay somewhere at 7000 ft. This year was a lacklustre ski season. It would still be active now, but for the La Nina wind, which brought more rain than snow.

6 Km mark and a saddle problem developed. The seat pivoted upwards into ' shuttle launch' mode and required immediate attention. The only tool I needed was a set of Allen keys..I had a perfectly good set..10, 000 miles away but nothing here and I wasn't turning back.This was to become a series of short annoying adjustments along the way. My watch was showing me 77° F, then 85° F as I reached 1158m (3800 ft. ). It was obvious the forest cover , either side of the road, was creating a wind breaker effect. Together with thinning Ozone it became very hot. Chugging along I found a rhythm and tried to ignore the seat problem. Various lookout car parks knotted their way up the road with occasional signs informing drivers where snow chains could be fitted.

Plummeting into the only freewheel section of the climb, lasting all of 100 m , I found the lie of the road snaking up steeply again. Forest species was changing and thinning out , traffic sparce. 2 cars came down the road, their occupants smiling at me. It wasn't just mad dogs and Englishmen who go out in the midday sun, but mad Irishmen on bikes too!! The 8 km mark passed and I thought I should be half way there now. Somewhere between 8 and 12 km marks , a series of hairpin bends took over bringing much relief to an already steep climb. But it proved shortlived and soon I was back slaving away to reach the 14 km point.

I stopped , not because my legs were in pain, however my lungs were trying hard to adjust to the thinning air. Forest had given way to Bonsai trees mixed in with what looked like silver birches. These bonsai were at least 1.1 m (4 ft.) tall and the lodge owner said some of them were 300 years old!!! I surveyed my surroundings, on my right was an alpine chalet, with a steeply sloped roof, set back from a lookout area. On my left, a brown-coated shelter and toilet hut not big enough to swing a mouse in, let alone a cat. In front of me lay Ruapehu. The mountain looked more immense now, imposing and seemingly too far off. I strained my eyes to see the top of the road, but couldn't see where it twisted its way to. I knew somewhere up there was the skifield, over 2 kms away, but the steep road did not allow me to see any buildings.

Finding some strength, I pedalled again. The last mile would be tough. At 1493 m (4900 ft.) I cleared the tree line and a strange lunar landscape opened up before me. Huge gray rocks and scree escarpments were everywhere attesting to past volcanic eruptions. The left side of the road fell away down the Mt. side. Fine gravel increased in volume but my knobbled fat low pressure tyres had a firm grip. Somehow I missed spotting the 15km mark. My saddle was threatening to launch me into space again, and I discovered I had drunk nearly all my water rations. A small wisp of crater steam rose over Ruapehu. I soldiered on at an excruciatingly slow 5 mph, in the lowest gear I could find.

Suddenly at the 16Km mark, I came across what I was looking for . A weather-beaten wooden sign said 'TUROA SKI RESORT ELEVATION 1620 M, that's 5316 ft, one mile high. I had done it. New energy surged through tired legs as a vast car park levelled out before me. A series of low level buildings sat on a raised gravel platform. On the left a rotunda-shaped ' Tickets & Toilets' beckoned me. It was locked.

I stayed for a while taking some shots of the incredible vistas before me. To the west was the unmistakeable Fugi-like profile of Taranaki at 2518m (8260 ft. ), another active volcano , which would have been my next conquest. It was clear at a staggering 140 Kms ( 88 miles) away!!

I headed down at full brakes realising just how steep the climb was. My tyres sizzled on the hot tarmac like rashers in a frying pan. It had taken me 2 hours to ascend and a mere 35 minutes to get down.

Back at the Powderhorn shop , one of the workers asked how far I'd got. I replied the skifield and described it to him. He stopped what he was doing , exclaimed ," not many people make it to the top" and rushed off for Annie, the shop owner, to tell her the news. Annie wanted to get me a drink but I refused(fool) saying I had water in the car behind me. A shop assistant asked If I knew the saddle on that bike was loose? Later that day , at the Volcano Activity Centre in Taupo, the young blonde receptionist asked if I had done the Tongariro Trek (hike). "No", I remarked, adding " but I biked the Okahune Mt. road!". Needless to say she was not impressed.