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Situated 8 miles off the coast of Western Ireland, This island is
part of a group of two craggy rocks jutting out of the Altantic ocean.
The Christain monks decided to get away from spotty nosed redheaded
teenagers and TV. Only they got a head start on the 20th century by
moving off the mainland around the 7th century A.D. ( I guess they
didn't like the rock music of their day, Gregorian Chant).
I expect the bar business drove them out in large numbers, and
under their head mover and shaker, St. Finian, they left the shores
of Ballinaskelligs, abandoning their stone church and set off in
small leather boats called currachs. They were soon back for more
bread and cheese supplies and finally they were off skimming over
the waves to their new rocky enclave.
There they stayed and set up a monastery on the top of one of the
two islands called Skellig Michael.Today remains of that settlement
have been restored to as close approximation as possible to the
original buildings. I took two trips out there on different years, under
very contrasting weather conditions.The first time was quite an
experience. Our group donned oilskins as the skipper said it was
a little choppy outside the sheltered inlet. That was the understatement
of the century. My group contained an elderly British couple, obviously
retirees, and a bunch of young German students I guess.
Naturally, as soon as we left the inlet the fun began!!
Normally the crossing takes 45 minutes. It took us an hour and
a half. The waves were abnormally high and the prow of the launch
had to break through the crests to make headway. Naturally every
so often a huge wave crashed over the launch and half the Atlantic
sea washed over us as we were exposed to the elements. The
skipper and his co pilot were nice and dry inside their cabin.
After a while when we were thoroughly soaked to the skin, we all
saw the futility of avoiding the onslaught of 'bathtime'. They were
not short of giving us a few fishing nets to cast overboard. Next
I thought we'd burst into singing old sea shanties.Instead we burst out
laughing when half the water went through one sleeve and out the
other. I was lucky sitting under the cabin overhang on the leeward
side of the wind and therefore sheltered from most of the waves. However
the young germans were 'passing around the soapbars'.
This was all very fine until one of the Germans stopped smiling
and laughing, grew very silent, then went green around the gills
and made his way to the side of the launch for a technicolour yawn
into the oily sunsplattered sea. He did that a few times as we
progressed further out from the mainland. I suddenly remembered
I had a huge Irish breakfast of pudding, eggs and bacon. My imagination
started playing tricks on me. I envisaged the fried eggs being
pummeled by the rashers into a scrambled gourmet mush or trying
to do the backstroke over the eggy goo. The black and white pudding
was probably engaged in the Bossa Nova with my duodenum and
winning awards for doing so. As for the brown bread it more than
likely tried to climb up my windpipe. I immediately struck
these thoughts from my mind. Actually I was distracted by another
salty waterfall courtesy of the Atlantic ocean, thank you old man
of the sea, just what we needed!!.
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Finally we reached the island and manoeuvred into landing position.
Ha!! crossing the sea was a piece of cake compared to the landing.
Because the pier was so small the launch could not moor to the
pier,. otherwise it would be smashed to bits, and us along with it.
We all had to literally jump to the slippery steps from the launch
while the skipper held onto the mooring rope from the boat.
Of course to the Germans it was a hop,skip and a jump and they're
on terra firma. To an
old codger, like meself...5 minutes later, "I'm
waiting for the sea to calm down"...ye'll be waitin'". Finally we're
all on the island and the skipper waves a cheery dry arm in our
direction.Told us to be back at the pier in about 2 hours. One of
the Germans is livid and I just laugh it off, saying he (skipper) took
a chance.
Three Steps to Heaven...Steps One, Two and Three
Step one..forget about it, turn back now..Thats what my mind
was telling me when I realised that we all had to get up the 700ft
craggy face to the monastery on top and they didn't install any
monastic escalators in those days either.
Up the steps went, twisting and winding this way and that.
People had to stop a while from exertion, it was sheer purgatory.!
Some passed others out, some passed out, period. The monks were a devious
lot.