The Skellig Isles

Map


Skellig Michael Island Monastery


Situated 8 miles off the coast of Western Ireland, This island is part of a group of two craggy rocks jutting out of the Altantic ocean. The Christain monks decided to get away from spotty nosed redheaded teenagers and TV. Only they got a head start on the 20th century by moving off the mainland around the 7th century A.D. ( I guess they didn't like the rock music of their day, Gregorian Chant).

have ya no homes to go to...no ,can we stay with you?


I expect the bar business drove them out in large numbers, and under their head mover and shaker, St. Finian, they left the shores of Ballinaskelligs, abandoning their stone church and set off in small leather boats called currachs. They were soon back for more bread and cheese supplies and finally they were off skimming over the waves to their new rocky enclave.

ballinaskelligs harbour


There they stayed and set up a monastery on the top of one of the two islands called Skellig Michael.Today remains of that settlement have been restored to as close approximation as possible to the original buildings. I took two trips out there on different years, under very contrasting weather conditions.The first time was quite an experience. Our group donned oilskins as the skipper said it was a little choppy outside the sheltered inlet. That was the understatement of the century. My group contained an elderly British couple, obviously retirees, and a bunch of young German students I guess. Naturally, as soon as we left the inlet the fun began!!

Normally the crossing takes 45 minutes. It took us an hour and a half. The waves were abnormally high and the prow of the launch had to break through the crests to make headway. Naturally every so often a huge wave crashed over the launch and half the Atlantic sea washed over us as we were exposed to the elements. The skipper and his co pilot were nice and dry inside their cabin. After a while when we were thoroughly soaked to the skin, we all saw the futility of avoiding the onslaught of 'bathtime'. They were not short of giving us a few fishing nets to cast overboard. Next I thought we'd burst into singing old sea shanties.Instead we burst out laughing when half the water went through one sleeve and out the other. I was lucky sitting under the cabin overhang on the leeward side of the wind and therefore sheltered from most of the waves. However the young germans were 'passing around the soapbars'.

This was all very fine until one of the Germans stopped smiling and laughing, grew very silent, then went green around the gills and made his way to the side of the launch for a technicolour yawn into the oily sunsplattered sea. He did that a few times as we progressed further out from the mainland. I suddenly remembered I had a huge Irish breakfast of pudding, eggs and bacon. My imagination started playing tricks on me. I envisaged the fried eggs being pummeled by the rashers into a scrambled gourmet mush or trying to do the backstroke over the eggy goo. The black and white pudding was probably engaged in the Bossa Nova with my duodenum and winning awards for doing so. As for the brown bread it more than likely tried to climb up my windpipe. I immediately struck these thoughts from my mind. Actually I was distracted by another salty waterfall courtesy of the Atlantic ocean, thank you old man of the sea, just what we needed!!.



the tiny pier


Finally we reached the island and manoeuvred into landing position. Ha!! crossing the sea was a piece of cake compared to the landing. Because the pier was so small the launch could not moor to the pier,. otherwise it would be smashed to bits, and us along with it.

did ya remember to bring the milk then?


We all had to literally jump to the slippery steps from the launch while the skipper held onto the mooring rope from the boat. Of course to the Germans it was a hop,skip and a jump and they're on terra firma. To anold codger, like meself...5 minutes later, "I'm waiting for the sea to calm down"...ye'll be waitin'". Finally we're all on the island and the skipper waves a cheery dry arm in our direction.Told us to be back at the pier in about 2 hours. One of the Germans is livid and I just laugh it off, saying he (skipper) took a chance.

Three Steps to Heaven...Steps One, Two and Three

Step one..forget about it, turn back now..Thats what my mind was telling me when I realised that we all had to get up the 700ft craggy face to the monastery on top and they didn't install any monastic escalators in those days either.

hey, who stole the hand railings then?


Up the steps went, twisting and winding this way and that.

only another 200 to go


People had to stop a while from exertion, it was sheer purgatory.! Some passed others out, some passed out, period. The monks were a devious lot.




© Paul Griffin 1999